2015-2019 F150 K3 Light Roll Bar Review & Install

2015-2019 F150 K3 Light Roll Bar Review & Install

What’s going on, ladies and gentlemen? Travis from americantrucks.com. And today, we’re checking out light bars and
roll bars for 2015 or newer F-150. Now, you’ve probably seen a couple of the
different options available on the site, but today we’re checking out the most affordable
one that you can pick up. This is the K3 Light Roll Bar. This guy comes in just under the $400 price
point, whereas most options start at around $600 and they easily go up from there. Some of them even go up past $2,000. Now, even though this is the most affordable
option, it still shares plenty of features and functionalities as some of those more
expensive options. Obviously, as the name implies, the big goal
with this bar is to install some auxiliary lighting over the cab so you get better visibility
when you’re off-road, or you’re on the work site, or you’re driving around on those back
country roads or whatnot. And the K3 does a very good job of allowing
you to easily mount any light that you choose. In my hand here is the bracket that they provide
so you can mount pretty much any light you want to on top of the light bar. This is really cool because it just clamps
over the bar. Only takes a couple of seconds. You just got to tighten it up here with the
provided bolts and nuts in the kit. And then you got this nice little universal
mounting tab here with a hole pre-drilled, but if you want to, honestly, you could probably
modify this even further to pretty much accept any light mount or post for either a light
bar or a light cube. So, you can get pretty creative and you can
get pretty universal with this. That’s really nice because it’s kind of an
open slate and you can really do what you want as far as auxiliary lighting is concerned. And then as far as overall build quality is
on par here as well. Even though it’s super affordable, we have
some pretty heavy duty tubular steel, which features a black powder coat finish on top. Black powder coat is a little bit more rugged
than a painted on or a polished finish. It’s actually baked on at the factory and
it’s safe to say that this will definitely stand up to some abuse, maybe some light strikes
or direct impacts, again, when you’re off-road, maybe you got some big heavy duty equipment
in the truck bed or whatnot. And, again, even if you do manage to take
the powder coat off, you do have stainless steel underneath here so you don’t have to
worry about excessive rust or corrosion anytime soon. And then the last thing to consider is how
the light roll bar actually mounts to the truck. And these brackets that they include are very
heavy duty. They probably weigh in about 10 to 15 pounds
a piece and they measure about a quarter of an inch to half inch thick. So, it’s safe to say once you get this thing
bolted down, it’s really not going anywhere. It’s also pretty lightweight at the same time. So, if you’re doing this by yourself, the
install shouldn’t be a huge concern. Now, this is not a bolt-on kit, 100%. You do have to drill some basic holes in the
bulkhead here of the bed itself, but that only takes a couple of seconds with a hand
drill. So, for that reason, I’m still gonna give
the install a relatively modest two out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter
and it’ll probably take you about two hours to get this thing bolted in. Now, a small word of caution here. Because this thing does come in a bunch of
different pieces, they do tell you to assemble it before you throw it on the truck. Guys, you can run into some fitment issues
with a product like this when it comes in pieces like that. So, I’m actually gonna walk you through the
entire install in just a minute. We’re gonna go about it a slightly different
way, that in my humble opinion, makes us a little bit easier, so the install should not
be a huge concern. So, again, if you’re looking for the most
affordable light roll bar for a 2015 newer F-150, you wanna throw some cool auxiliary
lighting over the cab, get that real old school pre-runner/trophy truck look, then K3 has
got you covered with our super affordable light roll bar. And if you decide to stick with the K3 over
those more expensive options, come back in a little bit, I’m gonna show you all the tools
that you have to dig out of the toolbox and then we’ll get working on that install, we’ll
finish that up step by step. All right, guys, before we get started, you
will need a standard drive ratchet, you need a 13-millimeter socket, a 19-millimeter shallow
socket, 5/32 Allen key or Allen head socket, 4-millimeter Allen key or Allen head socket,
and a 19-millimeter wrench. You also need a hand drill with a 5/16 drill
bit. Optional but helpful tools include an 1/8-inch
drill bit for a pilot hole, 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, an impact gun, and a magnet
for the double nut plate. All right, guys, once you have all the tools
out of the kit, you’re gonna grab that one of these mounting brackets. This is kind of the foundation for the whole
thing. Now, if you’re looking at the instructions,
they do tell you to assemble the entire light bar as one whole piece and then throw it on
the truck, size it up, and get it in place. But that can be a little bit difficult if
you’re working by yourself and honestly, once you piece it together, even though you don’t
have it tightened down yet, trying to get it to actually size up and fit correctly can
also be a little bit difficult. So, we’re just gonna play it simple here. We’re gonna install it on the truck piece
by piece. So, again, go ahead and grab the passenger
side bracket, throw it on top of the bed rail. You wanna make sure that this little bracket
right here with these two holes is flush up against the bulkhead. Once you’ve done that, you’re gonna grab these
little brackets provided in the kit, they got these little rivnuts on there, they’re
threaded, you’re gonna slide them underneath the bed rail so this little tab comes out
of the bracket itself. Once you’ve done that, go ahead and grab one
of these bolts with a flat washer and just hand-tighten that in place. Gonna do the same thing on the other side
here. And, we’re just hand tightening this hardware. We’re not gonna tighten it all the way yet. Just keep that kind of loose. Okay. Once you have those little brackets in place,
we’re gonna drill two holes through the bulkhead of the bed itself and then we’re gonna secure
two more bolts and the bracket to the bed rail using the double nut plates provided
in the kit. You’ll need a 5/16 drill bit for this, but
to make it a little bit easier, I definitely recommend drilling a pilot hole. I’m using an 1/8 of an inch bit first. All right, guys. Once you have those holes drilled and cleaned
up, now comes probably, arguably the most frustrating part of the install. It’s not a huge step here, but it might take
you a little bit of finesse. So, what you have to do if
you can get one of these double nut plates on the other side of the bulkhead. Now, the problem is this is actually a lip
on top of here, so you have to come in down here and try and get your fingers in there
and hold this double nut plate in place so that you can thread both of these bolts through. It’s a squeeze, guys. Unless you have tiny magical hands, you’re
probably not gonna be able to get this back there very easily. There’s a couple ways you can go about this. You can have the aid of a little magnet or
you can actually grab a longer bolt with similar threads or the same threads and what I’m actually
gonna do is I’m gonna press this long bolt in all the way and this gives me enough travel
so I can get over this lip. I’m gonna thread this bolt into this double
nut plate until it kind of locks up. We’re not cross-threading anything, we’re
just getting those threads to lock up, and I have a little bit of control here with this
double nut plate, then I’ll get one of these other bolts through and then we can secure
it. Let’s give this a shot. Oh, okay. So, if you get really lucky and you manage
to get your fingers in far enough to press the double nut plate up against the hole and
line it up, you might get lucky. You might be able to get one of the bolts
in there without the aid of any assistance. And once you have one side in, it’s just a
matter of getting the nut plate to swing up so you can get the other hole lined up. All right. We got lucky. So, go ahead and do the same thing for the
other side and then we can actually get our light bar installed. All right, guys. Once you got both of the brackets secured
on the bed rails, you’re gonna grab the primary support bar that goes between the two immediately
behind the cab itself. This secures to either of the brackets using
the largest bolts provided in the kit with the appropriate size flat washers. We are gonna tighten this bar down completely
once we get it installed and in order to do that you’ll need a 19-millimeter ratcheting
wrench or a standard wrench. All right. Once you have the bolts hand-threaded on both
sides, you’re gonna need to tighten them down. Now, unfortunately, this is a big piece of
hardware in a small space and it’s very difficult to get a standard wrench or even a ratchet
wrench in here. And honestly, it’s kind of difficult getting
a socket in there, but as long as you use a 3/8 drive socket or smaller, you should
be able to get this in here. You might have to put a little bit of pressure
on the plate here, unfortunately you might mar it up a little bit, but you just kind
of force it in there until the bolt lines up with the head. And go ahead and continue tightening it down. Okay. Now that the cross bar’s installed and tightened
down, we’re gonna install these support structures on either side. Now, these are held together. There’s a metal frame inside and then you
have these plastic covers. You need to loosen up these plastic covers. They’re secured using these Allen head bolts. You need to 5/32 Allen had socket or Allen
key. Go ahead and open those up a little bit, slip
them onto the crossbar, and then line up this post here with the other hole on our bracket. Once we have that secured, we’re gonna grab
these T-bolts provided in the kit, we’re gonna tighten all this stuff down to the crossbar,
then we’ll get a 19-millimeter bolt in here and that’ll secure it to the bracket on the
bed rail. Now, we’re not gonna tighten down any of this
hardware just yet either. Once we get these T-bolts in place on the
crossbar, we’ll get this 19-millimeter bolt here in the second post. All right. With that 18-mil bolt now seated, we’re gonna
tighten down all of those Allen head bolts, again using our 5/32 Allen head socket. And also, don’t forget to tighten down all
the plastic cover bolts as well. All right, guys, we’re almost finished up
here. Now we’re gonna install the second crossbar
that’s gonna go in front of the window here. There’s little pre-threaded holes on either
side of the main crossbar and in order to secure this stuff you’re gonna be grabbing
these short Allen head bolts, little button head bolts rather, and you’ll need a 4-millimeter
Allen key to tighten all this stuff down. All right, guys. Our bar is installed, we’re happy with where
it’s sitting, now we’re gonna secure it to the bed rails permanently. In order to do that, you’re gonna tighten
down all of these smaller bolts right here using a 13-millimeter socket. All right, guys, we’re just about wrapped
up. Next, we’re gonna install this nice little
plastic cover on the inside here. It’s technically optional, but obviously it
looks really good. Secure with some 3M backing, and we’re also
using two of these little Allen head bolts in order to secure it. So, go ahead and wipe this down with some
isopropyl alcohol just to make sure that you have some good adherence with the 3M tape
and then go ahead and remove these two bolts, again, using that 5/32 Allen key or Allen
head socket. Go ahead and throw the cover in place. Make sure you line everything up before you
press down. Make sure both holes are lined up, most importantly. Make sure all the 3M tape adheres so it’s
pressed down nice and tight. All right. Once the cover is nice and snug, you’re actually
not gonna be re-securing it using the original bolts. You have these smaller bolts in the kit. These are still Allen head bolts and you still
get to use your 5/32 Allen key, but the flange is a little smaller in diameter to accommodate
the hole on this little plastic cover. Just go ahead and get both of those hand-threaded,
make sure they line up, and again, drive them home with your socket or your Allen key. All right, guys, so once you got those plastic
covers installed, that’ll pretty much wrap up the install. Again, if you wanted to throw some auxiliary
lighting on there, now would be the time to do so. Just clamp these guys down onto the center
bar here with the provided hardware and throw on your light bar, or light cubes, whatever
you have sitting at home. But that’ll wrap up the install and that also
wraps up my review on the K3 Light Roll Bar, fitting your 2015 or newer F-150. I’m Travis. Thanks for watching. And for all things F-150, keep it right here
at americantrucks.com.

11 thoughts on “2015-2019 F150 K3 Light Roll Bar Review & Install

  1. Shop these K3 Light Roll Bars: https://amtrucks.at/2FqkGgF

    🎞Subscribe for Daily Ford Truck Videos: http://bit.ly/2pReEeg

  2. All that plastic makes it look like a wannabe Avalanche. Those bolts on the front of the bed look like they'd be easier to do from outside the bed, reaching your hand in the side.

  3. This roll bar looks like it's not very good as a roll bar. That's because the main roll bar is elevated off of the bed rails by the mounting brackets which are much weaker than the roll bar itself. In a roll over accident there will be significant lateral torque imposed on those mounting brackets. Since the mounting brackets are just flat sheet steel there is little to stop them from distorting under lateral torque. When that happens the potential for them to shift the entire roll bar away from the bed rails is pretty high. Once that happens in a roll over accident those roll bars will just be pushed into the bed on one side, and outside the bed on the other. Hopefully the brackets won't break in that condition, but forget about that roll bar staying in place.

    If the mounting brackets did not have that large gap that elevated the roll bar off of the bed rails it would be far more secure. Bolting the roll bar directly to the bed rails would also be far more secure, although more difficult to install.

    IMO this is good as a light bar only. Not really a roll bar.

  4. Roll bars are not meant to be assembled like something from Ikea – it would be totally useless – not least because that rear part of the cab is already strong from crushing forces due to the curved rear pillars.

    The only thing this bar is good for imo is mounting lights so that you don’t have to mount directly into the body – but then if you want to make your F150 look like an Avalanche – go ahead, knock yourself out

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